All learning

So, what, you may ask yourselves has this nomadic vagrant skanky feral creature actually been doing with her time. Navel gazing apart of course.

Shazza has a log book, hand written, none less, and it gives a good idea of the basic itinerary to date which goes a bit like this:

1^st November St Georges de Reintembaul. Shazza couldn't spell this. My first trip on getting off the boat, first time right hand side of the road driving. It was all about the journey, and of course the destination which was a sneaky night with an old work colleague in her French pad …

2^nd November Olonne sur Mer. Again slow progress, and not a lot going on other than driving as I got used to … well … everything. The driving, the shopping, the navigation, the works. Rocked up here at an Aires I hadn't known was there, paid 5 Euros for the privilege. That was also a learning point.

3^rd November Monbazillac. My first proper attempt to live the dream. Slept in a vineyard and thought I'd made it!

4^th November Dordogne on the road bike. Beautiful. Slept in St Clar, somewhere near Toulouse.

5^th November Gavarnie – what a beautiful amazing place. Neither ski nor walking season so complete and utter tranquility. Snowed as I got up in the morning so plans to do the Cirque were abandoned for Cauterets and walking the GR10 where I meandered somehow from autumn to winter wonderland.

6^th November stop over was near Lourdes. Another annoyingly driving rich day Again, all learning. Next sleep over Les Cabannes

7^th November I learned that if I park facing East then the sun does some of the work of chiselling ice off the inside of the windscreen. Arrens Marsous mountain biking, brilliant.

8^th November I worried about Shazza. Mountains are making her hot and bothered and there's been a black smoke incident. Oil & Water are being checked daily. Ax au Thermes bimbling today, up hills, round town, talking to french folk about quiche and sausage, and washing my feet in public in the town centre thermal sulphur pool. Bliss.

9^th November slept Thues Entre Valls Aire which was terrifying. Pitch black when I rocked up and entry is on barrier so you kind of feel committed before you're even in. And when I got in, St Bernard dog, two hippy mobiles and banjo music. What had I strayed into? Locked doors. Did brilliant walk involving rope walkways, sheer drops, ladders, the works. I would do that all again. Loved it.

10^th November, road bike up and down hills and hairpin experience. Somewhere near St Marsal where you pay 3 Euros for the use of the Aires. But it's brilliant because to pay it you go into the village shop where there were home cooked bakery products. Who could ask for anything more. Next stop Amelie les Bains

11^th November got the MTB out in Arles sur Tec, slept in Le Boulou which was jam packed with German camper vans. Belgians too. Evening walk along the river ended a fine day.

12^th November. Attempted a rest day. Found a beach, found a Brit, talked the hind leg off him and slept in local pick up / dogging spot with the doors locked. Chatted up by Pascale, random French man who was transfixed by my blue eyes, brown hair combo.

13^th November – got up early to avoid anglo french relations. Visited Ille sur Tec for MTB information and headed off to Casanove to play on the mountain bike. Moved on to Casteil for the night, lovely woodland Aires.

14^th November got up early because hey, that's how I roll and got on the road bike. 5 hours later and a lot of climbing, I'd looked at all possible parking / driving approaches to Pic de Canigou, which was drawing me towards it as the biggest mountain in the area. Massif. Indeed.

15^th November slept in Vernet les Bains and washed everything in sight due to access to spring water. Not for drinking but my god you can wash a lot of knickers. Got up, walked up up and more up to the first refuge en route to Canigou. Beautiful day. Did six hours of walking but in view of the sunshine and views I swear I have never ever stopped so many times on a walk just to sit and chill. Actually drank nearly all my water which is so not like me.

My legs, by the way, have amassed 16 hours of exercise in the last three days and are screaming at me for rest.

And that's where I've been …